The Ultimate Scenic Roadtrip: Discovering The Quiet Side Of The Dolomites

Mellow Wanderer

Steve Geiger is an EMMY‑winning former national television news producer turned globe-trotting storyteller and creator of Mellow Wanderer

Our Toyota hybrid engine barely made a sound as we eased out of Ortisei and journeyed toward SP64. Just ahead is one of the most scenic drives in the Dolomites.

I love slipping behind the wheel in search of new places and new adventures. So my action plan for the Dolomites included one must-drive scenic route in this alpine wonderland.

I waited for a not-too-cold, not-too-hot, sunny late spring day to hit the road. I got one—like an angler finally landing the fish of a lifetime.

With my wife Susan, we mapped our day trip beforehand, taking the road from Ortisei to Kastelruth, two quaint alpine villages in the heart of the lush, fertile meadows, plateaus, and mountains of the Val Gardena region. This area is a cultural melting pot bringing together the descedants of the centuries-old Ladins, Germans, and Italians.

Ortesi and Kastelruth (Mellow Wanderer)

I’m fueled up, emotionally and at the gas station, for what we were about to experience. To document our journey, I installed my GoPro Max 2 video camera on the hood of our rented Toyota Yaris Hybrid.

The camera captures stunning 360-degree perspectives. Perfect for reliving the drive later to see what my eyes missed while they were focused on the road in front of me. And you do have to stay focused like a Formula One driver on these narrow, curvy, cliffside roads of the Dolomites with their countless switchbacks. 

The most direct route from our Ortisei hotel to Kastelruth is SP64, a two-lane road winding up and through what’s known as the quiet side of the Dolomites- meaning less tourist traffic. Good thing I studied the route carefully before leaving because every road sign is in three languages—Ladin, German, and Italian. Egads! So much word salad in such small spaces.

Lucky for me, it’s a straight shot on one road from start to finish. SP64 is one long parade of eye candy— irresistible scenes of small villages and hamlets nestled in the colorful wildflower covered valleys and green hillsides and meadows. If the Wizard of Oz had only known, he would have landed here.

The alpine air is filled with the scents and sounds of spring—freshly mowed meadows, bees humming amongst the wildflowers, and butterflies fluttering in the cool breeze.

But beyond the amazing natural beauty here is the fact that this land provides a living for generations of farming families. Some farms have existed for centuries, providing a bounty of produce, milk, and cheese. The vast green meadows are pasturelands for cows and produce the hay that feeds livestock through the long alpine winter.

During our journey, we discovered a number of agritourism farms, which offer accommodations to travelers who want to experience what it’s like to live off the land. 

As we cruise along on the steep, winding curves and evergreen covered straightaways, there’s no feeling of stress, no tailgating, no honking of horns. Really no congestion at all. The politeness of drivers is evident. I’m relaxed, perhaps like the rest of them, as the bucolic scenery wraps itself around me like a warm, comfortable blanket.

SP64 High Scenery (Mellow Wanderer)

Twenty minutes later, which feels like no time has passed, we see our destination ahead: Kastelruth. It’s nestled in a valley, basking in the bright late-spring sun and embraced by the Dolomites. It looks like a medieval postcard scene.

Instead of knights riding in on horseback, Susan and me rolled into Kastelruth. One adventure had ended, and another was just beginning. 

Kastelruth Photos