Mellow Wanderer

Tag: Italy

Ides of March: Is The Scent Of Caesar’s Death Attracting Rome’s Cats?

Mellow Wanderer
Steve Geiger is an EMMY‑winning former national television news producer turned globe-trotting storyteller and creator of Mellow Wanderer

Every year on March 15, history whispers a warning: Beware the Ides of March. The phrase echoes through time because it marks when and where Julius Caesar was assassinated in 44 BCE — a turning point that reshaped the Roman world. But here’s what most travelers don’t realize: You can stand exactly where it happened.

And today? It’s filled with cats.

The Ides of March Is March 15

In the ancient Roman calendar, the “Ides” marked the midpoint of the month. In March, that date fell on the 15th.

Originally, it was a festive religious day honoring the goddess Anna Perenna — a celebration of renewal and the coming spring. No doom. No betrayal. That changed in 44 BCE.

Where Was Julius Caesar Assassinated?

Caesar was killed during a Senate meeting held at the Theatre of Pompey, built by his rival, Pompey the Great. The exact location of the assassination is now preserved at Largo di Torre Argentina in Rome.

Not the Roman Forum. Not the Colosseum. But a sunken archaeological complex just below the busy streets of Rome

Here, among four ancient temples and the remains of Pompey’s theatre, a group of senators — including Marcus Junius Brutus — stabbed Caesar 23 times.

The Roman Republic would never recover.

As For The Cats

In one of Rome’s most unusual twists, these ruins became home to a colony of stray cats in the 20th century. Volunteers eventually formalized rescue efforts, creating the
Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary.

Today dozens of rescued cats live safely and lazily among the ancient stones. The sanctuary provides medical care, sterilization, and adoptions. Visitors can observe the cats lounging in the very place, just a whisker away from where a Roman emperor met his grisly death.

In 2023, Rome opened Largo di Torre Argentina to walk-through visitors via elevated pathways. Beneath a stairwell under the streets, is a small subterranean room where the cat shelter is located. You can purchase a variety of cat-related souvenirs, and visit the cats waiting to be adopted.

It’s one of the most underrated stops in central Rome.

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Photos By Susan Geiger
Why A Small Italian Cookbook Is My Most Cherished Travel Souvenir

How do I keep a bucket-list Italy trip alive forever in my heart and soul?
Through my stomach, of course.

The best souvenir I brought home from Italy wasn’t a trinket or T-shirt—it was a local cookbook. Not one you’d find on Amazon or tucked onto a bookstore shelf. In fact, it’s not even a “book” in the traditional sense—it’s a humble 44-page booklet filled with authentic recipes from a real Italian kitchen. La Cucina Sgariglia is a lovingly compiled collection of traditional Italian recipes by Biagio and Maria Sgariglia.

Cookbook

Biagio & Maria Sgariglia

For years they ran the cucina (kitchen) at Southern Italy’s Villa Vergiliana, a historic residence near Cuma in Southern Italy. The villa is leased by the Italian government to the Vergilian Society—an organization devoted to the study of the Roman poet Vergil and promoting Italian culture. And of course, what’s more cultural than the food?

Lunch Like a Local—At a Villa Full of History

As part of a Temple University Rome adult learning program, we spent a day at Villa Vergiliana. That visit became one of the highlights of our Italian journey.

Villa Estate

Villa Terrace View

Villa Stairway

Vase

Villa Vergiliana

The setting was charming: a centuries-old villa and archeological site nestled among olive trees and gardens, filled with poetry, passion, and the aroma of something incredible simmering in the kitchen. Our lunch, prepared by the villa kitchen staff, was a traditional feast served family style—course after course, perfectly prepared and presented with love.

We didn’t feel like tourists. We felt like guests in someone’s Italian home. That’s a memory you don’t just pack away. You find a way to relive it.

From Their Kitchen to Mine

When I discovered that Biagio and Maria had gathered their recipes into a small cookbook—just for guests—I knew I had found my perfect souvenir.

The 44-pages are filled with treasured family recipes—soups, antipasti, mains, and desserts—all humble, hearty, and true to the region. Every time I open it in my home kitchen, I’m transported back to that long wooden table, the warmth of Italian hospitality, and the unforgettable day at Villa Vergiliana, nourishing not just my body, but my memory.

My First Cookbook Dish

Steve Geiger

Founder & Story Publisher

Susan Geiger

CFO & Website Photographer
Escape The Crowds: Discover Punta Carena, Capri’s Secret Coastal Paradise

Looking to escape the shoulder-to-shoulder tourist throngs that flood Italy’s hotspots? We stumbled upon a hidden slice of paradise during our visit to Capri, the tiny island off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. Capri is just as busy and beloved as any other Italian destination—especially in summer and fall—but the place we discovered felt quiet, romantically beautiful, and pleasantly uncrowded.

Locals even say they often outnumber the visitors. That place is Punta Carena, tucked into the far western edge of the island in an area known as Anacapri.

Life moves at a slower pace here, far removed from the ferry port’s chaos, where tourists pour out like ants at a picnic. Perched at a higher elevation, Anacapri offers sweeping views of the coast and the Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s where the island’s rugged cliffs meet the horizon—and where you’ll find the Faro di Punta Carena, the second-oldest lighthouse in Italy.

Built in 1867, the lighthouse still operates today, standing tall and pastel pink on the cliff’s edge like a sentinel guiding ships across the sea.

From the small parking lot and bus stop at Punta Carena, walking paths lead downhill: one to the lighthouse, the other to a private beach club (Lido del Faro) and a free public swimming and sunbathing area. Soft sea breezes temper the radiant sun. The air is filled with the sound of cliff-diving locals plunging into ice-blue, crystal-clear water.

We arrived in the early afternoon after spending the morning at the Blue Grotto, just a short bus ride away. As we strolled down the path toward the shoreline, we came upon Da Antonio, a humble bungalow-style café with panoramic sea views. A local landmark since the 1950s, this charming spot is still popular with islanders. We found a shaded table, ordered limoncello spritzes, and lingered over a leisurely lunch.

After the meal, we simply settled into our chairs and let time drift. There was no rush. No lines. No crowds. Just the sound of the waves and the warmth of the sun.

A German couple sat at the next table, doing the same. He had grown up on the island, and they often return to visit family. We chatted briefly—just enough to exchange smiles and stories—then returned to quiet contemplation. This is the kind of place where words seem unnecessary.

As the day unfolded, we decided to stay for sunset. The lighthouse faces directly west, offering one of the best sunset views on the island. The sky turned a brilliant, cloudless blue. The sea shimmered like a carpet of diamonds. Distant boat engines buzzed gently in the background. Seagulls called overhead. Waves lapped against the rocks.

Amazingly, only about six other people had gathered to watch the sun go down. It felt peaceful.

We watched as the orange sun dipped slowly into the horizon and vanished beneath the sea. A stirring finale. A perfect ending to a magical day.

Punta Carena Sunset Timelapse Video

Steve Geiger

Mellow Wanderer Creator/Author

Susan Geiger

Mellow Wanderer Photographer
Buried In Ash, Preserved in History: The Timeless Allure Of Pompeii

A line of tour buses stacks like dominos outside Pompeii, Italy’s legendary ancient city, once entombed under volcanic ash. The past draws visitors from around the world, eager to glimpse history frozen in time. Excavation continues to reveal new marvels, reminding us that Pompeii is far from a relic—it’s a city still telling its story.

(Pompeii with Mount Vesuvius in the background)

Stepping through the gates of Pompeii, the weight of history settles in. The wide cobblestone streets, smoothed by centuries of footsteps, also served a practical purpose—designed for both travel and the drainage of water and sewage. As you walk, it’s easy to envision the city’s former life, its streets bustling with merchants peddling their wares, townsfolk haggling over fresh produce, and the aroma of baked bread drifting through the air.

In the remains of a bakery, a stone oven and grist mill stand as remnants of a past that vanished in an instant. To me, the preserved structure resembles a modern-day pizza oven, its shape and purpose frozen in time beneath layers of ash. Was a baker at work when the sky darkened with fury from Mount Vesuvius?

Millstone & Brick Oven

Beyond the marketplace, the homes of Pompeii’s wealthiest residents reveal the elegance of a bygone era. Pristine courtyards once flourished with gardens, a tranquil contrast to the city’s lively streets. The walls and ceilings still bear vibrant frescoes, their colors defiant against time. These painted scenes weren’t just decoration; they told stories—myths, legends, and daily life immortalized in sweeping detail. In dining rooms, guests dined beneath grand images of gods and heroes, feasting on meals as rich in symbolism as they were in flavor.

One of Pompeii’s greatest gifts is its ability to transport visitors back in time. Every doorway, every weathered column, every mosaic-strewn floor speaks of lives interrupted yet remarkably preserved. Bathhouses, theaters, and even graffiti scrawled on walls paint a picture of a city brimming with life and culture, only to be silenced in an instant.

Human Remains Preserved In Ash

And yet, Pompeii endures. As archaeologists continue to unearth its secrets, the city remains a bridge between past and present—a place where history isn’t just learned but felt with every step.

Take A Video Tour

Story By Steve Geiger

Website Photography By Susan Geiger
How To Spend The Perfect 3 Days In Capri, Italy

My wife and I visited Capri, Italy, for a three-day weekend in mid-October, and it was nothing short of magnificent. We traveled by train from Rome to Naples, then took a ferry across the shimmering Gulf of Naples waters to Capri. The weather was spectacular—sunshine, blue skies, and mild temperatures all three days. Just perfect.

We rented a small bungalow on a hillside overlooking Capri’s main harbor. The view was breathtaking—terraced gardens bursting with greenery, the island’s famous lemon trees, and the endless blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Exploring Capri and its neighbor, Anacapri, requires stamina. The landscape demands a lot of walking, often up and down steep hills. While taxis are available, they’re pricey, so many visitors rely on the bus system. However, navigating it can be a challenge, especially for first-timers. The bus drivers are gruff, speak little English, and the buses themselves are small, often packed with tourists. If you’re standing, hold on tight—you’ll need your balance. Tickets for the Capri bus system are available at the main marina, but Anacapri operates on a separate system, which we learned the hard way when we tried to transfer.

Capri’s Best View

Anacapri quickly became our favorite spot on the island. It has a charming, laid-back atmosphere, with boutique shops, cozy restaurants, and must-see attractions. One of the highlights is the chair lift to the summit of Monte Solaro, the highest and most panoramic point on the island of Capri. The 12 minute ride up offers spectacular views of the island and the Bay of Naples, but the real magic happens at the top. The vistas are stunning—sheer cliffs plunging into the sea, panoramic views stretching for miles. From high up you’ll see the natural wonder known as the Faraglioni rock formations, Capri’s most iconic sight. It’s the perfect place to unwind, take in the scenery, and even grab a bite and drink at the small cafe.

Glow Of The Grotto

Another unforgettable experience is the Blue Grotto, though getting inside depends on the weather and tides. The grotto was closed for the first two days of our trip, but on our final morning, I checked the official website, saw it had opened, and immediately booked our tickets—about 18 euros each. We caught a bus to the grotto and arrived to find a long line snaking down toward the water. Since midday is the best time to see the grotto’s famous electric-blue waters, the crowds were inevitable. After waiting about two hours, we finally boarded a small wooden rowboat, squeezing in with two friendly German travelers.

If you’re claustrophobic, this might not be the excursion for you. Entering the grotto requires lying nearly flat on your back as the boatman navigates through a narrow rock opening. But once inside—wow! The water glows an almost surreal shade of blue, illuminating the cave in an otherworldly light. We floated inside for about 15 minutes, marveling at the mesmerizing colors. The entire experience, from waiting in line to exiting the boat, lasted about 50 minutes.

Sunset By The Lighthouse

After the grotto, we spent the rest of the day at the Punta Carena lighthouse—faro in Italian—and beach. The small, rocky shoreline was the perfect place to unwind. A seaside cafe nearby serves fresh salads, sandwiches, and, of course, limoncello spritzes—the island’s signature drink. We had a bite to eat, sipped our cocktails, watched the waves, and soaked in the island’s slow, dreamy rhythm.

As the day wound down, we were treated to one of the most breathtaking sunsets I’ve ever seen. The sky transformed into brilliant shades of orange and pink, casting a golden glow over the water, as the sun dipped below the sea.

Capri is pure magic—a place where natural beauty, history, and island charm come together in a way that nourishes your soul. If you ever get the chance to visit, go. And when you do, take your time, explore every corner, and let Capri work its enchantment on you.

Capri Photo Gallery

Website Author: Steve Geiger

Website Photographer: Susan Geiger