Underground Desert Beauty In America’s Navajo Nation

(Mellow Wanderer-Page, AZ) The adventure started in Sedona while staring at a wall of mesmerizing photography in a downtown art gallery. Images of smooth natural sandstone sculptures, etched over time by wind, sand and water, with graceful curves popping with silky muted earth tones and vibrant shades of orange, red, and yellow.

The kind of images Mellow Wanderer had seen before gracing the pages of National Geographic. “Where is this amazing place?,” I asked the gallery manager. She took out a map and pointed to Antelope Canyon. When serendipity strikes, previous travel plans take a detour. On the way to the Grand Canyon’s North Rim, we adjusted our vacation compass and re-routed northeast to Navajo Nation, home to Antelope Canyon near Page, Arizona. It’s well worth the extra two-hour-plus drive on a mostly two-lane desolate desert highway.

Pulling up to Ken’s Tours with its dusty dirt road entrance and two unmanned guard stations had me repeatedly muttering long and slow “I d-u-n-n-o about t-h-i-s.” The place looks like a combination roadside produce stand and flea market with public accommodations courtesy of Port-A-John. Yet, there were more vehicles crowded together than a Disneyworld paking lot. Clearly, the aesthetic value of this place is underground – not above it. We had tour reservations for 2pm. At $28.00 per person, you get about a 90-minute tour of the underground canyon with a personal guide herding a group of 15 people.Camera tripods are not allowed, unless you sign-up for the longer, more expensive photography tour. Our guide on this convection oven-like day was a young man of Navajo origin by the name of Cruz, who seemed unaffected by the heat as he trudged our tour group through sand and over rock on about a quarter-mile walk to the canyon entrance. Before descending a metal staircase deep into the canyon, Cruz gave us safety instructions and prepped us for what we were about to see and experience. Cruz’s only warning was a flash flood danger. During Arizona’s monsoon season, the canyon floor can rapidly flood with fast rising water. Luckily, during our visit, no such event happened; although near the tour’s end, wind from a distant thunderstorm blew sand into the canyon. It felt like gentle snow fall.

Antelope Canyon is named for the Pronghorn Antelope herds that roamed in and around the canyon. You’ll zig-zag through tight passageways, practically hugging the canyon walls, marveling at the various shadows and highlights cast on these incredible sculptures from the light above. As far as I could tell, nothing about this experience is claustrophobic. Our group of 15 varied in age, from young adult to middle-age. All had varying degrees of fitness and body type. No one seemed to struggle or panic. See the video below for a closer look.

The tour starts as a packed group, but the herd thins as each person finds a favorite spot to stop and take photos. Camera shutters echo throughout the canyon. Cruz has done so many of these tours he knows where the best light is anytime of day and offers up assistance to get the best shot, especially with smart phone cameras. (Tip: iPhone 6’s chrome filter works best.)

Cruz led the tour at a leisurely pace, often playing a Native American hardwood flute as we walked the tight corridors of the canyon, adding a mystical, spiritual and peaceful feel to this natural sanctuary. Many moments standout from this extraordinary experience. At the forefront are the stunning stone etched images the mind recognizes as heads of a Native American chief, a buffalo, an eagle and a woman with flowing locks in the wind. Test your imagination as you look at the images below.

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Antelope Canyon is open 7 days a week all year long. Hours are seasonal. Children are welcome. Kids under six are free. Reservations are required.

You’ll need to bring water, sunscreen, and a hat. It’s best to wear hiking shoes for the short desert walk and climbing up and down the canyon’s staircases.

There is a small gift shop and air-conditioned snack bar serving cold soft drinks and water.

SUMMER HOURS:

March 1 – First Week in November
8 AM – 5 PM
Tours begin at 8:20 AM, leaving every 20 minutes; last tour leaves at 4 PM

WINTER HOURS:

Second Week in November – Last week in February
9 AM – 3 PM
Tours begin at 9:30 AM, leaving every half hour; last tour leaves at 2 PM

Website: www.lowerantelope.com

Phone: (928) 606-2168