Also lost in the flames: all 80 cabins, the campground, general store, gas station, and the saloon. An entire resort reduced to ash in just a few hours. As of this writing, the wildfire is still burning—only 8% contained.
My stomach sank when I heard the news.
My wife and I visited both the South and North Rims of the Grand Canyon in the summer of 2017. A true bucket list trip to one of America’s natural wonders. We especially loved the North Rim—cooler temperatures, towering evergreens, fewer tourists, and a slower pace. Such a striking contrast to the busier, sweltering South Rim.
North Rim Entrance/MW PhotoGrand Canyon Lodge/MW PhotoNorth Rim Sunset/MW PhotoLodge Rim/MW PhotoGeneral Store/MW PhotoCampground/MW PhotoGas Station/MW PhotoFull Service/Mw PhotoSaloon/MW PhotoSaloon Interior/MW PhotoLodge Rim Cabins/NPS PhotoLodge Rooms/NPS Photo
Now it’s all gone.
The North Rim and its beloved trails are closed indefinitely. Who knows what happens next? Tens of millions will be needed to rebuild. And with today’s political and environmental climate, it feels like a long shot that a new Grand Canyon Lodge will ever rise from the ashes.
NPS Photo
But I’ll always remember what it felt like to sit on that quiet rim, feet up, looking out over the canyon, surrounded by beauty and stillness.
(Mellow Wanderer-Grand Canyon, AZ) To truly embed yourself in the American West,  stay at the Bright Angel Lodge for a unique experience on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Bright Angel is a Registered National Historic Landmark. Originally built in the late 1800s and expanded in the 1930s by renowned architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, Bright Angel Lodge is constructed of logs and indigenous stone. Colter was a pioneer in an era overwhelmingly dominated by men. She designed and built many of the Grand Canyon landmarks in the historic district at a time when women didn’t even have the right to vote.
ColterFireplaceBright Angel Lodge
Rustic and charming, Bright Angel Lodge served as a template for all other early architecture in the national parks. In the main lodge, the Bright Angel History Room has a timeline of significant events, as well as artifacts dating back more than a hundred years. Colter even designed the lodge’s fireplace, which was built to mirror a section of the canyon’s geology: Kaibab Limestone, Vishnu Schist stone, and other rock layers dating back more than a billion years. Bright Angel History Room has quite a story to tell and is well worth the time to browse the various displays and artifacts.
CABIN SOUTH RIM VIEW
When Mellow Wanderer planned a South Rim stay a year before our visit, Bright Angel Lodge was our choice. The cabins are right on the rim. We reserved one with a partial rim view. To our surprise, we got more than we expected.
BRIGHT ANGEL ONE BEDROOM CABIN
The main cabin window looks-out directly to the rim. Plus, a second door led us to a small patio and sitting area, which was just a few steps to the rim trail (See the video below). The location was ideal and within walking distance to everything: lodge restaurants, overlooks, Grand Canyon Railroad Depot, Bright Angel Trail and the bus terminals where tourists take free shuttles to the numerous points of interest.
TRAIL ENTRANCEDEER
During one early morning stroll close to the cabin, we came upon several deer feeding on plants and berries on the canyon ledge. Cabin rooms are spacious and airy, and that’s good because there’s no air conditioning. Summer is quite toasty here, but during our June two-night stay, we were quite comfortable. Even with the cozy rustic feel, there are modern conveniences such as an electronic safe, small refrigerator, bathroom hair dryer and cable TV. Bedding was adequate and needs upgrading, as does the mattress, which lacked support and left us with a few backaches.
The Bright Angel front desk staff was friendly, knowledgable and helped us navigate this massive park. Several dining options are available. Bright Angel Restaurant serves up moderately priced meals. The Arizona Room is more expensive, has views of the canyon, and southwestern cuisine dominates the menu. There’s also Bright Angel Fountain for quick walk-up meals, snacks, and ice cream.
Overall, Bright Angel Lodge is a good home base to launch your Grand Canyon South Rim adventure.
As I hiked along the Cliff Spring Trail, I found myself in awe of the breathtaking views and the rich cultural history of the Pueblo Native Americans. The trail’s narrow edge hugged the cliffside, and I felt both exhilarated and a little nervous as I made my way along the path. The rock overhang provided a welcome respite from the hot sun. I paused for a moment to take in the stunning views of the Grand Canyon’s North Rim below, feeling a sense of peacefulness wash over me. The beauty of the landscape and the deep history of the Pueblo Native Americans left me with a newfound appreciation for this incredible natural wonder.
Discovering the Enchanting Beauty of Cliff Spring Trail
(Mellow Wanderer-Grand Canyon) Perhaps the most iconic Grand Canyon image is the one paying homage to Native Americans. The Watchtower at Desert View rises 70 feet on the southeastern edge of the canyon, giving visitors panoramic views down to the Colorado River. Famed 20th century architect Mary Colter designed and directed  construction of the Watchtower, which opened in 1932. Colter described her work as a re-creation of the traditional watchtower, but made a bigger, grander version. Obviously, she was looking for maximum jaw dropping effect ( I had to hold mine just below the belt line the entire time I was there!). The tower and views from it deliver a big wow-factor. Colter honored Native American culture by designing the ground floor of the Watchtower as a kiva, a round gathering area for Pueblo religious rituals and social gatherings. Large mid-floor to ceiling framed windows lookout to the canyon with all its glorious scenery.  Many of Colter’s architectural creations at the Grand Canyon have fireplaces and furniture made from native trees. The Watchtower has those features, too. The wood ceiling was salvaged from logs used at the old Grand View Hotel, which was the first hotel built at the Grand Canyon.  From ground level, a spiral staircase ascends to multiple levels; each has a series of lookout windows. The first level honors the Hopi tribe. According to legend, Hopi first entered the world in the Grand  Canyon through a small opening at the very depth of the canyon. Hopi believed their spirits pass back through this opening upon their deaths. Hopi artist Fred Kabotie (pictured left) added wall murals to the Watchtower to reflect Hopi heritage and history, including the traditional Hopi Snake Dance, which was an annual ritual in August. Desert View Watchtower is a National Historic Landmark and is on the National Register of Historic Places. On January 1, 2015, the Watchtower was purchased by the National Park Service from the concessionaire who managed it.  NPS plans to restore the tower with an emphasis on making it more of a tribute to Native Americans. Plans are to bring back craft artists, dancers, musicians and guest speakers.
There’s no charge for entering the Watchtower. The attraction is included in the Grand Canyon entry fee. The staircase to the top is rather narrow and there are no public accomodations for the disabled and those in wheelchairs. The Watchtower and Desert View observation areas are open year round. There’s plenty of parking, including recreational vehicles, and a nearby campground. Desert View has a gas station, restrooms, trading post, snack bar and market.
