Tag: Rome

Ides of March: Is The Scent Of Caesar’s Death Attracting Rome’s Cats?

Mellow Wanderer
Steve Geiger is an EMMY‑winning former national television news producer turned globe-trotting storyteller and creator of Mellow Wanderer

Every year on March 15, history whispers a warning: Beware the Ides of March. The phrase echoes through time because it marks when and where Julius Caesar was assassinated in 44 BCE — a turning point that reshaped the Roman world. But here’s what most travelers don’t realize: You can stand exactly where it happened.

And today? It’s filled with cats.

The Ides of March Is March 15

In the ancient Roman calendar, the “Ides” marked the midpoint of the month. In March, that date fell on the 15th.

Originally, it was a festive religious day honoring the goddess Anna Perenna — a celebration of renewal and the coming spring. No doom. No betrayal. That changed in 44 BCE.

Where Was Julius Caesar Assassinated?

Caesar was killed during a Senate meeting held at the Theatre of Pompey, built by his rival, Pompey the Great. The exact location of the assassination is now preserved at Largo di Torre Argentina in Rome.

Not the Roman Forum. Not the Colosseum. But a sunken archaeological complex just below the busy streets of Rome

Here, among four ancient temples and the remains of Pompey’s theatre, a group of senators — including Marcus Junius Brutus — stabbed Caesar 23 times.

The Roman Republic would never recover.

As For The Cats

In one of Rome’s most unusual twists, these ruins became home to a colony of stray cats in the 20th century. Volunteers eventually formalized rescue efforts, creating the
Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary.

Today dozens of rescued cats live safely and lazily among the ancient stones. The sanctuary provides medical care, sterilization, and adoptions. Visitors can observe the cats lounging in the very place, just a whisker away from where a Roman emperor met his grisly death.

In 2023, Rome opened Largo di Torre Argentina to walk-through visitors via elevated pathways. Beneath a stairwell under the streets, is a small subterranean room where the cat shelter is located. You can purchase a variety of cat-related souvenirs, and visit the cats waiting to be adopted.

It’s one of the most underrated stops in central Rome.

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Photos By Susan Geiger
Italy In Motion: Observing Life One Frame At A Time

Whenever I visit a place with stunning landscapes and cityscapes, I feel compelled to capture them in timelapse video. My camera of choice is the compact and easy-to-pack GoPro Hero. While widely known as an action camera for adventure sports, the GoPro is an incredibly versatile travel companion. Instead of lugging around a backpack full of camera gear, I simply slip my lightweight GoPro into a pocket along with a foldable mini tripod, and off I go.

Recently, I spent seven weeks in Italy as part of a university-based adult learning program. Unlike the typical tourist on a week-long vacation, I had the luxury of wandering at my own pace, fully immersing myself in Italian life. There’s nothing quite like selecting a spot, observing the rhythm of daily life, and capturing it in timelapse. You never know what you’ll discover. One thing I quickly learned is that Italians are always on the move, day and night. The streets and squares of Rome pulse with constant activity.

One early evening in Piazza del Popolo, I watched as locals strolled through, stopping for gelato and chatting with friends. At the center of the piazza stands a towering Egyptian obelisk, originally built in the 13th century BC under Ramses II, accompanied by a grand fountain. It serves as both a focal point and a social gathering place, where carefree children climb and play on the lion statues at its base. To me, that’s a striking sight—an ancient relic turned into a modern-day playground.

In a similar blend of old-world charm and contemporary culture, just across the piazza, a group of teenagers transformed the space between twin 17th-century churches into an impromptu dance floor. With music blaring from a boombox, they executed acrobatic breakdancing moves, blending history with modern expression in an unexpected yet mesmerizing way.

Throughout my journey, I encountered countless other fascinating moments. Two seagulls perched on a ledge of the Colosseum seemed to pose for excited tourists, oblivious to the fact that gladiators once fought for their lives on this very ground. A young couple expressed their love at a romantic lighthouse overlook on the island of Capri. And in Venice, the golden glow of sunset bathed the waterways as gondolas carried couples on the dreamlike journey they had always imagined.

Observing and capturing these moments in brilliant timelapse is not just a passion of mine—it’s a way to keep the journey alive forever.
Experiencing Life In The Eternal City Of Rome

After arriving in Rome and shaking off the jet lag, I wake up the next morning excited to explore the neighborhood my wife Susan and I will call home for the next seven weeks. Our rental apartment is in a charming, quiet area just a short walk from Piazza del Popolo. Our landlord lives in the same building and grew up here, along with his sister, who still resides here as well. Their parents were opera singers in Rome, so they affectionately call their rental “The Opera House.”

The two-bedroom apartment is simply decorated with antique furniture and artwork from the opera and Victorian periods. Piazza del Popolo, Latin for “People’s Square,” is one of Rome’s most historic and expansive public squares. At its center stands an Egyptian obelisk, over 2,000 years old, brought to Rome by Emperor Augustus in 10 BC after his conquest of Egypt. It’s a breathtaking sight.

Photo By Steve Geiger

In the evenings, Romans of all ages fill the piazza, soaking in the sounds of street musicians and indulging in gelato and other sweets from nearby shops. Piazza del Popolo is the place to be—alive with socializing and people-watching.

To the east of the obelisk, a dirt path winds up to a steep staircase leading to the top terrace of the Villa Borghese Park. From there, you’re treated to a stunning Roman sunset, with St. Peter’s Basilica framing the horizon.

Photo By Susan Geiger

Photo By Steve Geiger

Yes, I have a feeling I’m going to love living here for the next two months! Ciao!

Feature Cover Photo By Susan Geiger