Mellow Wanderer

Tag: Point Reyes

Countdown To Summer: When School’s Out, Go West With The Kids And Discover Some Cool Teachable Moments

“School’s out forever. I’m bored to pieces,” so sang Alice Cooper in his 1972 rock anthem “School’s Out.” Parents can put the kibosh on their kids’ boredom with a good old-fashioned road trip. Keep learning alive and fun this summer and consider a trip to Northern California.

Santa Cruz

Learn about the history of surfing in Santa Cruz, the birthplace of the sport in North America. Maybe even crash some waves with the kids. Then ride the 98-year-old Giant Dipper, the oldest rollercoaster in California at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. I rode it and the experience took me back to the glory days when wooden coasters ruled the planet.

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Santa Cruz is also home to amazing Natural Bridges State Park. See the million-year-old geological wonders, the mudstone bridges. Spend a day under the sun and explore the beach for tide pools with abundant sea life.

Natural Bridges State Park

Monterey

Just an hour south of Santa Cruz, along the scenic Pacific Coast Highway, you’ll discover the seaside town of Monterey. Visit historic Cannery Row and learn about the bygone era of the sardine packing industry. Adjacent to Cannery Row is the popular Monterey Bay Aquarium, one of my favorites! The aquarium is beautifully intimate, situated on the ocean, with huge floor to ceiling underwater window views of the natural sea kelp forest. There’s a raised boardwalk outside leading down to the water, where aquarium staff guide kids in wetsuits and snorkels in shallow water tide pool explorations. Advanced reservations are required. Nearby Pacific Grove is bicycle heaven. An oceanside pedestrian-bicycle-only paved pathway is a great way to watch a sunset. Maybe even observe a sea otter floating on its back riding the current, as I did.

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Point Lobos State Natural Reserve

Continuing south on the Pacific Coast Highway toward Big Sur, stop at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve. Keep whatever camera you have with you at the ready. I can’t think of any piece of natural real estate with more photo ops: landscapes, plants and flowers, butterflies, and marine life. Make sure you bring binoculars, too. Nothing’s more entertaining than observing hundreds of sea lions barking, swimming, and frolicking on the off-shore rocks. Hike the Seal Lion Point trail to see them, or just follow your ears!

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Big Sur

If you continue on to Big Sur, pull over just before you cross the Bixby Bridge. Bixby is one of the most photographed bridges in the world, especially for Hollywood movies, TV commercials, and even video games. Built in 1932 for $200,000, Bixby is also one of the tallest bridges in the world at 260 feet above its canyon floor. From here you get breathtaking views and photos.

Bixby Bridge

When you cross the bridge, stop and visit Andrew Molera State Park and learn what it was like to be an early pioneer rancher. The ranch house museum is a historic site with many preserved artifacts from the days when settlers first arrived along Big Sur and the California coast. Walk the beach or settle under one of the many driftwood huts dotting the shoreline.

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Yosemite National Park

What I love about Northern California is you can drive from the beach and be in the mountains in just a few hours. In the heart of the Sierra Nevada Mountains is Yosemite National Park, a majestic treasure full of towering waterfalls, Giant Sequoias, and flowing meadows of wild flowers. Yosemite is a climber’s paradise, too. From the floor of Yosemite Valley, look skyward from the bases of magnificent Half Dome and El Capitan, two granite rock formations 3,000 feet and 5,000 feet tall, respectively. You’ll see climbers ascending to the top. Binoculars are a must. For a spectacular view of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, and the mountains, drive your vehicle up to the Glacier Point Overlook. Sunset is a popular time to visit.

Glacier Point Overlook

One of the best hikes in Yosemite is the relatively easy Carlon Falls Trail, something parents in reasonably good shape with adolescent and teenage kids can do. The 3.8 mile roundtrip trail through the forest leads to a natural swimming hole. It’s the coldest water I ever jumped into, but the most refreshing experience ever on a hot summer’s day. Stepping on wet rocks can be a bit slippery, so walk cautiously into the water. Swimmers often climb to the waterfall’s top and jump in feet first or do cannonballs. Diving is not recommended and no lifeguards are on duty.

No visit to Yosemite is complete without visiting the Ahwahnee, the grand lodge and National Historic Landmark in Yosemite Valley. The Ahwahnee opened in 1864 and is known for its grand architecture. The social gathering rooms are massive, as are the stone fireplaces. The restaurant has large wraparound picture windows that overlook nature and spectacular Yosemite Falls. The food is delightful as well.

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Point Reyes National Seashore

A five hour drive northwest of Yosemite brings you back to the coast and Point Reyes National Seashore, another one of my favorite places in Northern California.

Point Reyes National Seashore

If you feel the earth move under your feet, as songwriter Carole King would say, it’s because the San Andreas Earthquake Fault runs through the Point Reyes peninsula. Walk the Earthquake Trail and discover the geology of this unique space. Explore the paved loop lined with signs describing the impact of earthquakes. You’ll see how the land has changed and what caused the devastating 1906 San Francisco earthquake.

Point Reyes has 80 miles of shoreline with beach access. McClures Beach is one of those isolated special beaches. It’s below a towering cliff. You have to hike down to get there, but well worth the effort. Just make sure you have the proper footwear. Flip flops will be a problem. Once you’re on the beach, you feel a sense of seclusion, just you and the massive waves crashing against the rocks.

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Just above McClures Beach is the Tomales Point Trail. Hike the trail for dazzling views of the Pacific Ocean on one side and Tomales Bay on the other. The hike is popular for visitors who want to see Tule Elk. Mid-summer is a great time for elk activity, as the males spar to gain the affections of females for mating season. The sound of males bugling is distinct and loud.

Visit the Point Reyes Lighthouse and go back in time to the early days of seafaring. The historic lighthouse stood as a sentinel on the Point for over 100 years, beginning in 1870 and ending in 1975, when it was retired by the Coast Guard. Be prepared for a long walk down and a steep walk back up. Take advantage of the pullouts along the way to stop and rest, especially on the way up. The weather out there can be harsh, with stiff wind and dense fog, even during summer.

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So get the car, van, or recreational vehicle ready for an incredible journey to the Golden State. Make lasting family memories that will keep you California Dreamin’ forever.

Video Tours

Monterey Bay Aquarium

Yosemite National Park

Glacier Point Overlook

Carlon Falls

Point Reyes National Seashore

Point Reyes Lighthouse
A Museum Where The Telegraph Is Alive And Well And Still On-The-Air

They report for duty in uniform — khaki shirt, name tag over the left breast shirt pocket, and a cap with an embroidered emblem that looks like lightning bolts. A patch on the left sleeve identifies who they are: National Park Service Volunteer. They’re surrounded by electronic relics— most still working— that take up space and make a lot of noise.

Before the Internet, email, and satellite communications changed our lives, there was the telegraph—the lifeline of dots-and-dashes called Morse code, transmitted over the airwaves so ships at sea could talk to land-based radio stations. There were hundreds around the world and dozens in North America. Most have disappeared, with only one still on-the-air in North America— KPH radio station, San Francisco. The NPS volunteers are keepers of the faith, inside an art deco style building at the end of a long road canopied by Calfornia cypress trees on Point Reyes National Seashore.

KPH Radio Station/Point Reyes

In the heydey of the telegraph, mighty RCA (Radio Corporation of America) owned KPH. Before moving to Point Reyes, KPH first operated from San Francisco’s Palace Hotel in 1905. A year later the Great San Francisco Earthquake struck and forced the station to relocate. It was regarded as the “wireless giant of the Pacific.” The station received incoming telegraph messages from its transmitter in nearby Bolinas, California, including the infamous message of December 7, 1941— the Japanese invasion of Pearl Harbor. At the time, Morse code was the only way ships could send distress signals. It was the standard ship to shore communication for 100 years, eventually replaced by advances in electronic communications technology near the end of the 20th century.

The last Morse code ship messages to and from KPH ended on June 30, 1997. The National Park Service then stepped in and took over the KPH property. The building was shuttered for two years before Richard Dillman, president of the Maritime Radio Historical Society—a small volunteer group of self-described “radio squirrels”— convinced the National Park Service to let them bring KPH back to life. The non-profit group pays for the operation through small grants, donations, fundraisers, and money out of their own pockets. Dillman says he and others in the group find creative ways to fix and maintain some of the electronic relics. After all, spare parts are hard to find. A storage room inside KPH is a trip back in time as shelves are stacked with vintage radio receivers. Before the coronavirus pandemic, visitors to Point Reyes National Seashore could visit the KPH building every Saturday for tours, and observe volunteer radio operators communicate via telegraph over open maritime channels to the few ships around the world still equipped to send and receive telegrams. Now the KPH radio building is closed and will remain that way until California moves to phase 3 COVID-19 reopening. The state is currently in phase 1. Still, the closure has not deterred the KPH volunteers, according to Roy Henrichs, who heads operations and maintenance for the Maritime Radio Historical Society. “We are working to resume transmitting Morse broadcasts on maritime frequencies from an alternate transmit site in Valley Springs, CA, ” explained Henrichs via email. “That is experimental development work, but initial testing began last Saturday (September 5, 2020). That should keep us on the air through the end of the COVID event, as well as any future event that takes us off the air at Point Reyes.”

A dedicated bunch of radio squirrels doing whatever it takes to stay on-the-air and preserve history.

KPH PHOTO GALLERY
A Popular Old Lighthouse On The Edge Of The Pacific Gets A Makeover

You can appreciate what it took to help ships navigate the rocky, fog-shrouded, and windswept northern Pacific coast when you journey far out to the isolated Point Reyes Lighthouse. It is a hike to get there. From the parking area at Point Reyes National Seashore, you first ascend a steep paved walking path and then descend a long winding stairway of more than 300 steps – the equivalent of a 30-story building. The trip back will tax your legs and raise your heart rate. Consider this before you go: The walk down to the lighthouse takes between 5-10 minutes; the return trip up is approximately 20-30 minutes or longer depending on your fitness level. At the top of the stairway, the lighthouse appears as a mere speck on the horizon. This no man’s land surrounded by water had no mercy on the human spirit. Lighthouse keepers spent lonely days perched on a cliff at the western tip of Point Reyes that juts 10 miles out into the sea. No other lighthouse in America experienced more fog and wind than Point Reyes. It still stands as a beacon in the Pacific nearly 150 years after it became operational in 1870. Until the lighthouse was retired by the U.S. Coast Guard in 1975, keepers occupied and maintained the house, the machinery, and the powerful Fresnel lens that alerted mariners.

FRESNEL LENS/NPS PHOTO

The lighthouse surely prevented casualties at sea, but not all. Over 50 shipwrecks still occurred, killing countless crews and passengers. Since the lighthouse has historical maritime significance, an ambitious full restoration project kicked-off in early August 2018. It took 13 months to complete and cost $5 million. Restoring the huge Fresnel lens was the centerpiece of the project. This required specialized work from a lampist who disassembled, repaired, and reassembled the lens’ 1,032 original crystal pieces made in Paris. The lighthouse’s observation deck is open to the public and is a great place to watch for marine life, especially gray whale migrations during winter and spring. If you love history, nature, and don’t mind an aerobic workout along the way, plan at least a half-day excursion out to the Point Reyes Lighthouse. Click the video below to learn more about the life of a lighthouse keeper, a behind-the-scenes look of their workplace, and the challenges they faced.

If You Go…

NPS PHOTO

Bring your own food and water.

Wear comfortable walking/jogging shoes.

Wear layered clothing for fast-changing weather conditions, including fog and rain.

Cell phone service is limited and sometimes non-existent.

Pets are not allowed beyond the parking area.

Public restrooms are available.

Map Your Journey…
Point Reyes National Seashore Is On Shaky Ground In Northern California

NPS Photo

One of America’s most natural wonders sits directly in the path of one of the world’s most well-known earthquake zones: the San Andreas Fault. Point Reyes National Seashore has spectacular beauty, abundant flora and fauna, and magnificent coastal cliffs. Yet the ground under it all is constantly on the move.

Earthquake Trail San Andreas Fault Marker

The San Andreas Fault is the tectonic plate boundary between the Pacific Plate and the North American Plate. That plate boundary slowly moves an inch-and-a-half to two inches a year — about the same speed a fingernail grows. The last time stress between the two plates built-up and slipped was 1906, which caused the Great San Francisco Earthquake. The quake remains the worst natural disaster in California’s history. More than 3,000 people died and over 80% of San Francisco was destroyed. The San Andreas Fault is approximately 750-miles long and runs through most of California. At Point Reyes National Seashore, you can hike the Earthquake Trail, an easy paved loop around the fault zone. The trail is less than a mile and has signs posted with information about the fault line’s history and impact on the local landscape. Earthquake Trail is just a short walk from the Bear Valley Visitor Center.

Tomales Point Trail

The Tomales Point Trail parallels the fault line. While hiking Tomales, you’ll likely be awestruck by the stunning scenery along the peninsula. On one side is Tomales Bay; the other is the Pacific Ocean. The one-way trail is approximately nine miles roundtrip, but you don’t have to hike all the way out to Tomales Point, where the trail becomes more rugged. There’s only a slight elevation during the first several miles. Stop and admire the wildflowers, especially in spring and summer when they are in full bloom. Along the way, you’ll probably see a herd of free-range Tule Elk. The herd grazes near the trail, but hikers are advised not to approach or disturb them. It’s best to stay on the trail the entire time. Tule Elk are only found in California. Tomales Point is a 2,600-acre reserve for the Tule Elk to roam. About half the herd is less than five years old. The best time to view elk is between August and October during mating season. You can often hear bull elk bugling from the top of the hills as they round-up females. Bring binoculars and a camera with a telephoto lens for great close-up views and pictures.

McClures Beach

From the same Pierce Point Road parking lot where you enter the Tomales Point Trailhead, you will find another hiking trail descending to remote McClures Beach, a small cove hugged by towering rocky cliffs. The hike is about a half-mile and follows a meandering creek down to the beach. Walking along the water’s edge is peaceful, refreshing, and mostly isolated. You can explore tidepools, or just sit on the beach and drink in the fabulous views. If you go for a swim, beware of rip currents and sneaker waves. A sneaker wave happens suddenly and is higher, stronger, and extends farther onto the beach than a normal wave. There are no lifeguard stations. The surf here is alluring, but intense, so stay alert. Also, be cautious of the cliffs and bluffs while on the beach. They can be unstable since they’re formed of soft rock and are vulnerable to landslides and rockfalls. You certainly don’t want to setup a beach camp next to the cliffs. Save enough energy at the end of your beach day for the half-mile ascend on the trail back to the parking lot. (Click the video below for scenic views of McClures Beach and the Tomales Point Trail)

Chimney Rock

Another popular trail is Chimney Rock, where Drakes Bay and the Pacific Ocean meet. This is a relatively easy hike of less than two miles. Keep a lookout for gray whales, as the waters here are popular migration routes and feeding grounds.

Elephant Seals

Take the trail to the Elephant Seal Overlook. These incredible sea mammals almost became extinct at the turn of the 20th century due to overharvesting. Back then, their blubber was a popular source of fuel. Once protections took hold, elephant seals returned to Point Reyes in the 1970s. The population bounced back in a big way. There are now over 3,000 elephant seals at Point Reyes National Seashore. Chimney Rock is an excellent viewing area.

Map Your Journey

(Click The Title Below Each Map For A Full Screen View)

Point Reyes National Seashore

Earthquake Trail

Tomales Point

Chimney Rock/Elephant Seal Overlook