I woke up in our cozy seaside cottage to a brilliant morning in Bernard, Maine. Tucked on Mount Desert Island, right on the edge of Acadia National Park, Bernard is often called the “quiet side” of the island—away from busy Southwest Harbor yet close to incredible restaurants, charming shops, and stunning hiking trails. We’ve visited many times, but each stay feels like a fresh chance to explore and discover something new. Acadia never fails to impress.
An iconic American landmark is gone.
A fast-moving wildfire—sparked by a July 4th lightning strike—has ravaged the nearly 100-year-old Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim.
Also lost in the flames: all 80 cabins, the campground, general store, gas station, and the saloon. An entire resort reduced to ash in just a few hours. As of this writing, the wildfire is still burning—only 8% contained.
My stomach sank when I heard the news.
My wife and I visited both the South and North Rims of the Grand Canyon in the summer of 2017. A true bucket list trip to one of America’s natural wonders. We especially loved the North Rim—cooler temperatures, towering evergreens, fewer tourists, and a slower pace. Such a striking contrast to the busier, sweltering South Rim.
Now it’s all gone.
The North Rim and its beloved trails are closed indefinitely. Who knows what happens next? Tens of millions will be needed to rebuild. And with today’s political and environmental climate, it feels like a long shot that a new Grand Canyon Lodge will ever rise from the ashes.
But I’ll always remember what it felt like to sit on that quiet rim, feet up, looking out over the canyon, surrounded by beauty and stillness.
Yellowstone constantly vents steam like an overbearing boss blowing off stress. However, this doesn’t mean we should fear it. In fact, millions of visitors gather every year to watch Yellowstone’s iconic geyser, Old Faithful, erupt approximately every 92 minutes. My family and I waited patiently, cameras ready, for the spectacle to begin some 15 years ago. Old Faithful did not disappoint.
True, visitors at Biscuit Basin got more than they bargained for when an unexpected explosion sent them running for their lives. Fortunately, no one was hurt. They certainly have a harrowing vacation story to share for years to come.
So, what exactly happened? The United States Geological Survey, a science-based federal agency, succinctly explains the event in the video below. The agency constantly monitors activity at Yellowstone and other environmentally sensitive and potentially volatile areas across the country.
My desire to visit Yellowstone all those years ago was driven by a half-joking urge to see it before it “blew to smithereens”—probably the result of watching too many Hollywood doomsday movies. Don’t let one isolated incident deter you from visiting Yellowstone. It’s a majestic place, full of biodiversity and wonder.
After two long, frustrating years of waiting, we finally made the trip to our dream destination: the Dry Tortugas, a nearly two-and-a-half-hour ferry ride south of Key West, Florida. This place is so popular you need to book a year in advance. We did just that in 2022 for an October 2023 trip. Everything was falling into place—except the weather. Right before our trip, Hurricane Ian whipped through South Florida. October tropical storms aren’t uncommon, but most don’t cause as much damage as Ian. Unfortunately, Ian damaged the dock at Dry Tortugas National Park, and it wouldn’t be rebuilt in time for our trip.
Thankfully, the Yankee Freedom Ferry is extremely flexible with rebooking. In fact, it was a breeze. Kudos to them! The trip cost $220 per person, with a discount for National Park Pass holders. We scheduled our second attempt for mid-May the next year, well in advance of the Atlantic hurricane season, and when the water is refreshing, not boiling. When we set out, the weather was perfect and the water calm. Under a cloudless blue sky and bright morning sun, we checked into the Key West ferry terminal at 7 am with over 200 other passengers and departed for the Dry Tortugas an hour later.
The Yankee Freedom provides plenty of amenities. Breakfast and lunch buffets are included, with coffee, fountain drinks, and water. Snacks, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages are available for purchase on the return trip. With four toilets on board, there’s never any long waiting in line. The crew couldn’t be friendlier or more helpful. They have all the snorkel gear you could possibly need, though we brought our own. We also packed beach chairs, an umbrella, and beach towels. Some adventurers brought tents and large portable coolers for overnight camping. You can camp just outside Fort Jefferson on the beach for up to two nights. But you have to rough it—no power or bathrooms, just outdoor showers, a clothes-changing station, and a single compost toilet. I know a few people who’ve done it, and they say it’s amazing. On clear nights, there’s no light pollution, and the stars put on quite a show.
Our journey to the Dry Tortugas was smooth and relaxing, with sightings of sea turtles and flying fish along the way. As we got closer, the first thing you see on the horizon is the massive Fort Jefferson. It stands as a sentinel in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, 70 miles southwest of Key West. Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Jefferson protected American shipping interests in the Straits of Florida where the Gulf and Atlantic Ocean meet.
Upon arrival, we made our way towards the beach, just a short walk from where the ferry docks. Luckily, we joined a local school guide leading a group of kids out to the reef. We would’ve never found it on our own. What an incredible underwater wonderland! We saw amazing marine life—varieties of tropical fish, coral, sea urchins, and a school of what appeared to be giant permit, pompano, or jackfish. We even spotted a barracuda. My son and I spent a considerable amount of time snorkeling, exploring this incredible submerged world.
Sadly, we also noticed a lot of coral in distress from bleaching. This is a pressing issue in the Florida Keys and elsewhere in the world. Our environment is constantly changing, and this trip only reinforces the importance of protecting our natural beauty, both underwater and on land.
Following our snorkel adventure, we took a self-guided mini-tour of the fort, starting with a walk around the moat. The moat water is crystal clear and teeming with marine life. We walked across the short bridge and through the fort’s main portico entrance to the visitor center. Nicknamed the “Guardian of the Gulf,” Fort Jefferson protected U.S. interests during the Civil War through World War II.
Dry Tortugas National Park is a journey well worth taking, and one we plan on returning to as often as we can. This adventure is a definite bucket list must.
Steve Geiger
Mellow Wanderer Founder
Susan Geiger
Contributing Photographer
Ian Geiger
Contributing Underwater Photographer
(Mellow Wanderer-Grand Canyon, AZ) To truly embed yourself in the American West, stay at the Bright Angel Lodge for a unique experience on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Bright Angel is a Registered National Historic Landmark. Originally built in the late 1800s and expanded in the 1930s by renowned architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, Bright Angel Lodge is constructed of logs and indigenous stone. Colter was a pioneer in an era overwhelmingly dominated by men. She designed and built many of the Grand Canyon landmarks in the historic district at a time when women didn’t even have the right to vote.
Rustic and charming, Bright Angel Lodge served as a template for all other early architecture in the national parks. In the main lodge, the Bright Angel History Room has a timeline of significant events, as well as artifacts dating back more than a hundred years. Colter even designed the lodge’s fireplace, which was built to mirror a section of the canyon’s geology: Kaibab Limestone, Vishnu Schist stone, and other rock layers dating back more than a billion years. Bright Angel History Room has quite a story to tell and is well worth the time to browse the various displays and artifacts.
When Mellow Wanderer planned a South Rim stay a year before our visit, Bright Angel Lodge was our choice. The cabins are right on the rim. We reserved one with a partial rim view. To our surprise, we got more than we expected.
The main cabin window looks-out directly to the rim. Plus, a second door led us to a small patio and sitting area, which was just a few steps to the rim trail (See the video below). The location was ideal and within walking distance to everything: lodge restaurants, overlooks, Grand Canyon Railroad Depot, Bright Angel Trail and the bus terminals where tourists take free shuttles to the numerous points of interest.
During one early morning stroll close to the cabin, we came upon several deer feeding on plants and berries on the canyon ledge. Cabin rooms are spacious and airy, and that’s good because there’s no air conditioning. Summer is quite toasty here, but during our June two-night stay, we were quite comfortable. Even with the cozy rustic feel, there are modern conveniences such as an electronic safe, small refrigerator, bathroom hair dryer and cable TV. Bedding was adequate and needs upgrading, as does the mattress, which lacked support and left us with a few backaches.
The Bright Angel front desk staff was friendly, knowledgable and helped us navigate this massive park. Several dining options are available. Bright Angel Restaurant serves up moderately priced meals. The Arizona Room is more expensive, has views of the canyon, and southwestern cuisine dominates the menu. There’s also Bright Angel Fountain for quick walk-up meals, snacks, and ice cream.
Overall, Bright Angel Lodge is a good home base to launch your Grand Canyon South Rim adventure.
