After two long, frustrating years of waiting, we finally made the trip to our dream destination: the Dry Tortugas, a nearly two-and-a-half-hour ferry ride south of Key West, Florida. This place is so popular you need to book a year in advance. We did just that in 2022 for an October 2023 trip. Everything was falling into place—except the weather. Right before our trip, Hurricane Ian whipped through South Florida. October tropical storms aren’t uncommon, but most don’t cause as much damage as Ian. Unfortunately, Ian damaged the dock at Dry Tortugas National Park, and it wouldn’t be rebuilt in time for our trip.
Thankfully, the Yankee Freedom Ferry is extremely flexible with rebooking. In fact, it was a breeze. Kudos to them! The trip cost $220 per person, with a discount for National Park Pass holders. We scheduled our second attempt for mid-May the next year, well in advance of the Atlantic hurricane season, and when the water is refreshing, not boiling. When we set out, the weather was perfect and the water calm. Under a cloudless blue sky and bright morning sun, we checked into the Key West ferry terminal at 7 am with over 200 other passengers and departed for the Dry Tortugas an hour later.
The Yankee Freedom provides plenty of amenities. Breakfast and lunch buffets are included, with coffee, fountain drinks, and water. Snacks, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages are available for purchase on the return trip. With four toilets on board, there’s never any long waiting in line. The crew couldn’t be friendlier or more helpful. They have all the snorkel gear you could possibly need, though we brought our own. We also packed beach chairs, an umbrella, and beach towels. Some adventurers brought tents and large portable coolers for overnight camping. You can camp just outside Fort Jefferson on the beach for up to two nights. But you have to rough it—no power or bathrooms, just outdoor showers, a clothes-changing station, and a single compost toilet. I know a few people who’ve done it, and they say it’s amazing. On clear nights, there’s no light pollution, and the stars put on quite a show.
Our journey to the Dry Tortugas was smooth and relaxing, with sightings of sea turtles and flying fish along the way. As we got closer, the first thing you see on the horizon is the massive Fort Jefferson. It stands as a sentinel in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, 70 miles southwest of Key West. Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Jefferson protected American shipping interests in the Straits of Florida where the Gulf and Atlantic Ocean meet.
Upon arrival, we made our way towards the beach, just a short walk from where the ferry docks. Luckily, we joined a local school guide leading a group of kids out to the reef. We would’ve never found it on our own. What an incredible underwater wonderland! We saw amazing marine life—varieties of tropical fish, coral, sea urchins, and a school of what appeared to be giant permit, pompano, or jackfish. We even spotted a barracuda. My son and I spent a considerable amount of time snorkeling, exploring this incredible submerged world.
Sadly, we also noticed a lot of coral in distress from bleaching. This is a pressing issue in the Florida Keys and elsewhere in the world. Our environment is constantly changing, and this trip only reinforces the importance of protecting our natural beauty, both underwater and on land.
Following our snorkel adventure, we took a self-guided mini-tour of the fort, starting with a walk around the moat. The moat water is crystal clear and teeming with marine life. We walked across the short bridge and through the fort’s main portico entrance to the visitor center. Nicknamed the “Guardian of the Gulf,” Fort Jefferson protected U.S. interests during the Civil War through World War II.
Dry Tortugas National Park is a journey well worth taking, and one we plan on returning to as often as we can. This adventure is a definite bucket list must.
Dry Tortugas National Park Maps
Meet The Team
Steve Geiger
Mellow Wanderer Founder
Susan Geiger
Contributing Photographer
Ian Geiger
Contributing Underwater Photographer
