They flutter and fly, sometimes with reckless abandon. Who knows where they’ll land—on your head, your shoulder, even your beard?
The Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory is a joyful, immersive escape. I wandered through its indoor tropical oasis in the heart of Key West with a wide smile the entire time. Hundreds of butterflies drift freely around you—50 to 60 species from around the world—sharing a lush, climate-controlled glass habitat with vibrant tropical birds and other fascinating creatures.
The landscape inside is a living watercolor: orchids, palms, flowing water features, and warm tropical light.
Even better, you can witness the butterfly lifecycle in real time at the Conservatory’s live chrysalis exhibit—a magical window into nature’s transformation.
The Conservatory helps guests understand the importance of protecting butterfly habitats. Some species, like the endangered Miami Blue, face steep challenges from habitat loss, storms, pesticide use, and invasive predators. Fortunately, scientific programs—including captive breeding and reintroduction efforts—are offering hope.
After two long, frustrating years of waiting, we finally made the trip to our dream destination: the Dry Tortugas, a nearly two-and-a-half-hour ferry ride south of Key West, Florida. This place is so popular you need to book a year in advance. We did just that in 2022 for an October 2023 trip. Everything was falling into place—except the weather. Right before our trip, Hurricane Ian whipped through South Florida. October tropical storms aren’t uncommon, but most don’t cause as much damage as Ian. Unfortunately, Ian damaged the dock at Dry Tortugas National Park, and it wouldn’t be rebuilt in time for our trip.
Yankee Freedom III Docked At Fort Jefferson
Thankfully, the Yankee Freedom Ferry is extremely flexible with rebooking. In fact, it was a breeze. Kudos to them! The trip cost $220 per person, with a discount for National Park Pass holders. We scheduled our second attempt for mid-May the next year, well in advance of the Atlantic hurricane season, and when the water is refreshing, not boiling. When we set out, the weather was perfect and the water calm. Under a cloudless blue sky and bright morning sun, we checked into the Key West ferry terminal at 7 am with over 200 other passengers and departed for the Dry Tortugas an hour later.
The Yankee Freedom provides plenty of amenities. Breakfast and lunch buffets are included, with coffee, fountain drinks, and water. Snacks, soft drinks, and alcoholic beverages are available for purchase on the return trip. With four toilets on board, there’s never any long waiting in line. The crew couldn’t be friendlier or more helpful. They have all the snorkel gear you could possibly need, though we brought our own. We also packed beach chairs, an umbrella, and beach towels. Some adventurers brought tents and large portable coolers for overnight camping. You can camp just outside Fort Jefferson on the beach for up to two nights. But you have to rough it—no power or bathrooms, just outdoor showers, a clothes-changing station, and a single compost toilet. I know a few people who’ve done it, and they say it’s amazing. On clear nights, there’s no light pollution, and the stars put on quite a show.
Our journey to the Dry Tortugas was smooth and relaxing, with sightings of sea turtles and flying fish along the way. As we got closer, the first thing you see on the horizon is the massive Fort Jefferson. It stands as a sentinel in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, 70 miles southwest of Key West. Built in the mid-1800s, Fort Jefferson protected American shipping interests in the Straits of Florida where the Gulf and Atlantic Ocean meet.
Upon arrival, we made our way towards the beach, just a short walk from where the ferry docks. Luckily, we joined a local school guide leading a group of kids out to the reef. We would’ve never found it on our own. What an incredible underwater wonderland! We saw amazing marine life—varieties of tropical fish, coral, sea urchins, and a school of what appeared to be giant permit, pompano, or jackfish. We even spotted a barracuda. My son and I spent a considerable amount of time snorkeling, exploring this incredible submerged world.
Sadly, we also noticed a lot of coral in distress from bleaching. This is a pressing issue in the Florida Keys and elsewhere in the world. Our environment is constantly changing, and this trip only reinforces the importance of protecting our natural beauty, both underwater and on land.
Following our snorkel adventure, we took a self-guided mini-tour of the fort, starting with a walk around the moat. The moat water is crystal clear and teeming with marine life. We walked across the short bridge and through the fort’s main portico entrance to the visitor center. Nicknamed the “Guardian of the Gulf,” Fort Jefferson protected U.S. interests during the Civil War through World War II.
Dry Tortugas National Park is a journey well worth taking, and one we plan on returning to as often as we can. This adventure is a definite bucket list must.
Key West is a lazy, laid-back carefree town steeped in history. I couldn’t wait to explore all the historic landmarks that the island had to offer. One of the first places on my list was the Key West Lighthouse, an iconic landmark in the Old Town neighborhood. I was excited to learn about the fascinating life of lighthouse keepers and their families.
As I approached the lighthouse, I was struck by its tall, sturdy structure and the sweeping view of the surrounding landscape. I made my way up the spiral staircase, step by step, pausing at several pullouts along the way to get a glimpse through some portholes. Frankly, it was more to pace myself and rest my body more than anything else. I’m in reasonably good shape, and you have to be to able ascend the 88 steps to the top. It’s well worth the effort, and good exercise, too, especially to work off that slice of key lime pie I had at lunch!
Finally, I reach the top of the lighthouse. The views are magnificent! You see the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Mexico, the island life on the narrow streets, and the roof tops of the many bungalows below. Walk around the top of the lighthouse and take in a 360° stunning view of the entire island.
After spending some time at the top of the lighthouse, I descended back down the stairs to explore the living quarters. Walking through the rooms where the keepers and their families once lived was like taking a step back in time. The rooms were filled with antique furniture and personal artifacts, giving me a glimpse into what life must have been like for the lighthouse keepers and their families.
As I continued my tour, I learned about the lighthouse’s history and the important role it played in guiding ships safely through the dangerous waters of the Florida Keys. I also discovered the challenges that the keepers faced in maintaining the lighthouse, from dealing with hurricanes to keeping the light burning bright every night. The first lighthouse was built in 1825. It was made of coral rock and topped out at the height of 65 feet. Over time, as trees grew taller and buildings increased in height, a new lighthouse was needed, so one was constructed in 1846 to a height of 86 feet.
By then, new technology had emerged: The Fresnel lens, pioneered by French physicist Augustin-Jean Fresnel. The new lens increased the reach of the light beam to 16 nautical miles. Several versions of the Fresnel lens, each more powerful than the last, were developed and installed over the years until the Key West Lighthouse became obsolete and was decommissioned in 1969 by the U.S. Coast Guard.
Today, the Key West Lighthouse is a popular tourist attraction. It’s owned by the local government, but is maintained by the Key West Art & Historical Society. Visitors can spend a lovely day exploring the lighthouse, the grounds, museum, and gift shop, which has restrooms. Special evening events include group sunset viewing from the top of the lighthouse with wine and food tastings. Whatever way you choose to visit, the lighthouse is a must-see experience to get a true taste of Key West history.
