I love to explore and wander through new places. Trogir, a captivating jewel along the Dalmatian coast, is exceptionally satisfying. With its rich tapestry of history, architecture, and local life, this is a coastal paradise. Trogir’s history is a melting pot. Its origins trace back to the Greeks in 300 BC, with Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Austrians leaving their indelible mark. Today, it proudly stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a living testament to bygone eras.
As you wander the narrow, cobbled streets, the town’s history comes to life. Brightly adorned facades and hidden squares exude a timeless presence , where coffee culture thrives, and artisans craft their wares in the open.
But Trogir isn’t just a relic; it’s a vibrant community with a lively atmosphere. Families call these ancient streets home, with apartments and condos, businesses, bustling restaurants and cozy cafes.
The Cathedral of St. Lawrence is a true masterpiece, merging Romanesque-Gothic splendor with the remarkable Radovan’s Portal and the serene Chapel of St. John. It’s a visual delight that captures your attention. Cathedral Square is not just about the cathedral; it’s also home to the Hall of Justice (Loggia del Bigallo), a Renaissance gem, and the Clock Tower (Torre dell’Orologio) with its unique clock face. This square really exudes Old World charm.
Kamerlengo Castle, perched by the waterfront, tells tales of Trogir’s military history. It’s an imposing presence and an architectural wonder.
The waterfront promenade is perfect for leisurely walks. The palm-lined path, cooled by the sea breeze, offers a serene escape from the bustling streets of the old town.
Visiting Trogir in early June is a true delight. Mild temperatures, endless sunshine, and a backdrop of blue skies enhance your experience. The sun’s warm embrace adds to the magic of this coastal paradise. Trogir has it all!
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AUTHOR/VIDEO BY STEVE GEIGERPHOTOGRAPHS BY SUSAN GEIGER
A trip to the Karst region of Slovenia reveals there is significant life and grandeur underground. There are huge, amazing subterranean caverns, canyons, and a medieval castle protruding from a cave. Such is Slovenia’s carefully maintained cave culture, an immense source of geological and environmental local pride, as it should be, and a vital source of tourist revenue for the region.
We ventured below the surface – and above in one instance – to explore the natural wonders inside the captivating worlds of Postojna, Predjama Castle, and Skocjan caves. Each has a unique history, amazing geological features, stunning vistas, and some heart-pounding, physically-challenging moments.
Postojna Cave
This is one natural wonder that rises to a theme park level. From souvenir shops and themed restaurants to a resort hotel and a cave train, Postojna is marketed as a family entertainment complex. It is the most touristy and crowded compared to the others. Even so, Postojna Cave is a fun adventure and a sight to behold. At the cave’s entrance, people are herded into queues in groups, according to your preferred language of the tour guide. (English, German, Slovene, and Italian). The path descending into the cave is smooth and even, leading to the cave train boarding area. Again, it feels like you’re boarding a theme park ride.
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We wore light jackets because it’s quite chilly underground, and even gets cooler when the ride whisks you away at a pretty good rate of speed. The train runs through some narrow, low ceiling, winding tunnels, so there are caution signs not to stand or raise your arms. Take that seriously! It’s a rather lengthly ride deep inside the cave. Along the way, the train passes through some wide open chambers staged with lighting, including chandeliers, to show off beautifully glistening and colorful stalactites and stalagmites towering from the ground and ceiling.
When the train comes to a stop, you step off to find yourself in a surreal subterranean world, a moisture-filled echo chamber world of steep hills, plunging valleys, and an orchestra of water droplets ricocheting off rock formations and puddles – and sometimes your head and neck. A hat and scarf are a good defense. You’re immersed in a marvel millions of years in the making, a 20-kilometer (12-mile) cave carved by the Pika River. Just 5.3 kilometers (3 miles) is open for public access. Still, the breath and scope of it is something like a fairy tale world. It’s hard to imagine any living creature surviving here, but there is! Something called an olm, a long snow-white colored salamander creature, inhabits the cave. Locals call olms baby dragons. They live in darkness and survive for long periods of time without food in this underground sanctuary.
Predjama Castle
Just a few miles from Postojna Cave, up a winding mountainous road, you’ll find an imposing sight almost too great to believe. High in a mountain, perched on a cliff, is the medieval Predjama Castle. The massive fortress made of stone is an amazing feat of architecture, constructed in front of a cave and extends upward inside of it. Predjama is the largest cave castle in the world, and more than 800 years old. Slovenian legend tells how a 15th-century knight named Erazem of Predjama lived at the castle and used his forces there to fight against the nobility. Erazem was eventually killed and the rebellion ended. You hike your way to the castle from the parking lot, cross over a small draw bridge and enter through the front gate.
From there, you climb up to multiple levels using narrow stairways. Sometimes there’s only room to go one way. You’ll see living quarters, battle chambers, an armory, and a cistern to capture dripping cave water. There’s an interesting system of channel drains carved into the interior fortress walls that flows water into the cistern. The journey up through the interior of the castle, and then way up into the cave, is not for the unfit. It is a test of stamina, for sure, but well worth the effort. At the upper castle levels, you’ll have outstanding panoramic views of the countryside, bright green pastures, and rolling hills. Depending on the time of day, you might see bats flying overhead, as a colony of them live there. Every castle cave requires bats, of course!
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Skocjan Caves
For a truly vigorous and visually immersive experience, the subterranean masterpiece of Skocjan Caves and its seemingly endless canyon is a glorious hike you won’t soon forget. Even if you’re reasonably fit but not used to steep inclines and staircases with hundreds of steps, this adventure will tax your stamina and test your leg muscles. For me, an active senior, it was so worth it. Skocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is special. The enormity of the interior makes you feel so small, a mere spec inside a larger world, with an infinite dark abyss below, like you’re in some science fiction environment or Star Wars world.
Cave guides lead groups according to language. In the beginning, there’s a series of smaller chambers and grottos with cool looking rock formations and large stalactites and stalagmites. Then comes the big show – the so-called “Murmuring Water Cave.” You can hear the rushing waters of the Reka River echoing throughout the cave. You’re high above the river, hugging the cave wall as you walk a narrow winding foot path until you come to the Cerkvenik walking bridge. The plexiglass bridge and low railing make for a mind-blowing sight and feeling. If you’re squeamish about heights, walk across quickly and look straight ahead.
Ascending above the cave, darkness gradually turns to light as you approach the exit, which is a surreal experience. It feels like you’re looking through the world’s largest picture window. Rich, lush landscape is ahead as you leave the dark subterranean wilderness.
There are three ways to return to the visitors center. Two are relatively easy, one is more strenuous but the most scenic. We chose the more scenic route, and discovered unparalleled beauty on the way back. The views of the Reka River canyon and landscapes are majestic and unforgettable. Slovenia’s cave culture left an indelible impression on our adventurous souls. A journey of history, wonder, and geological masterpieces.
As we stepped off the plane in Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital city, our weariness from overnight travel gave way to excitement and anticipation. We thoroughly researched this charming little city with a river running through it after reading Rick Steves’ Croatia & Slovenia travel guidebook. Admittedly, Slovenia wasn’t even on our radar until after we started reading the guidebook. We got it because we booked a Croatia trip with a tour group and wanted to learn more about that country. Slovenia became more intriguing and inviting after we started discovering the country’s natural beauty, history, and culture. We just had to see it for ourselves, so we booked an Airbnb apartment for 9 nights in Ljubljana before our Croatia tour and ventured out from there to see the rest of Slovenia. Since the country is small, Ljubljana made sense as our home base.
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I reserved an airport transfer in advance with Slovenia’s GoOpti, a ride share similar to Uber and Lyft. As we drove into the city, I was immediately struck by its beauty. The streets were lined with colorful buildings, and there was a sense of history and tradition in the air. We soon arrived at our Airbnb apartment, a quaint little place in the heart of the old town, with a second story view of a narrow cobblestone street lined with boutique shops, cafes, a bakery, and some of Ljubljana’s most popular restaurants. All of it, including a wonderful little gelato shop next door, just steps from our front door.
Ljubljana Castle & Fountain (Use Bottom Left Screen Volume Control In Player To Hear Audio)
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We explored old town Ljubljana on our first full day. It has a lively, vibrant atmosphere. There’s a pedestrian friendly promenade with restricted vehicle use, yet you have to beware of bicyclists weaving through. They come up on you very quickly. The Ljubljanica River runs through the center of old town, much like the Seine River in Paris. I like to call Ljubljana my little Paris, but quieter and less congested. River boats cruise up and down the Ljubljanica and are a popular, scenic, and relaxing way to experience the city. I loved the hour or so cruise on a bright, cool weekend spring morning watching people stroll along the promenade, or relaxing sipping coffee at the numerous outdoor cafes. You’ll often see paddle boarders and kayakers. The river’s water quality is superb and crystal clear. Ljubljana prides itself as having some of the best water in the world, drinkable from numerous city fountains, and has been recognized internationally for its environmental stewardship.
Ljubljanica River Cruise (Use Bottom Left Screen Volume Control In Player To Hear Audio)
Our first stop was the tourist information office located in the center of town next to the wonderful Triple Bridge, a picturesque structure over the Ljubljanica River designed by the Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik, whose baroque-style designs are everywhere in this city– from bridges, the Central Market, and public spaces and parks, to iconic buildings. For instance, in his design of the library at the University of Ljubljana, the exterior windows are shaped like book shelves. The Triple Bridge is exactly what its name says: Three pedestrian bridges connected together, creating an aesthetically pleasing and symmetrical structure. The bridge’s elegant design, with its distinctive balustrades and stone pillars, has made it a recognizable symbol of Ljubljana’s architectural heritage.
Triple Bridge Timelapse (Use Bottom Left Screen Volume Control In Player To Hear Music)
We got the lay-of-the-land, so to speak, of Ljubljana by joining an official tourist information tour group. Our guide led a small group around the city, describing Ljubljana’s culture, art, and history, and its significant leaders in each area. The tour began in Prešeren Square, next to the Triple Bridge, located in the heart of Ljubljana’s historic city center. The square is a natural gathering place and a focal point for locals and tourists alike.
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Prešeren Square is named after France Prešeren, Slovenia’s greatest poet. The square features a statue of him. Prešeren is a national symbol of Slovenian literature and culture, and the square serves as a tribute to his legacy. The eye popping pastel pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation adds to the square’s cultural and historical significance, with its Baroque architectural style. It was originally built in the 17th century.
Castle On The Hill
One of the highlights of the tour was visiting Ljubljana Castle. The castle offers stunning views of the city, and you can spend hours exploring its many nooks and crannies. Ljubljana Castle is prominently situated on a hill overlooking the old town. Its imposing presence is visible from various parts of Ljubljana, and it has become a recognizable symbol representing the city’s heritage, culture, and identity. The Ljubljana Castle Funicular, a cable railway that operates between the old town and the castle, is a convenient scenic way to reach the top if you prefer not to walk. From the top of the castle, you get a breathtaking view of the city with the magnificent Julian Alps on the horizon.
Ljubljana Castle Funicular (Use Bottom Left Screen Volume Control In Player To Hear Audio)
The castle dates back to the 11th century and served various purposes throughout the centuries, including as a defensive fortress, a royal residence, and a prison. It was also home, according to local folklore, to the Dragon of Ljubljana, a mythical creature that lived beneath the castle and terrorized the city until it was defeated by a group of young crusaders. Ljubljana embraces its dragon mystique with zeal. The city’s official mascot, Ljubo, is the centerpiece of Ljubljana’s tourist marketing, and you’ll find plush dragon stuffed toys and other souvenirs around the city. Dragons symbolize strength, protection, and the city’s connection with ancient legends. The mythical creatures can be seen in sculptures, art, and various aspects of daily life, such as in the Dragon Bridge, a popular spot for a photo opportunity.
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If you’re a “foodie” like us, you’ll appreciate the diverse menus and exciting choices at the various restaurants and cafes. Traditional Slovenian cuisine varies depending on the region of influence. For instance, western Slovenia borders Italy, so pasta, risotto, pizza, prosciutto, and seafood are menu mainstays. The north-central portion along Austria’s border has its German meat and sausage, pork, sauerkraut, potatoes, and strudel dishes that are popular with Slovenians. Then there’s Hungary to the east and Croatia in the south bringing goulash, paprikas, shellfish and wine to the table. Slovenia also has a thriving wine region and beer industry, plus uses fresh farm-to-table local ingredients. Ljubljana’s Central Market is a bustling place for residents and restaurants to source local produce, meats, cheeses, honey, spices, and more.
Ljubljana Food Gallery
Ljubljana is a city that encourages you to embrace the moment, and soak in the beauty that surrounds you. A reminder that sometimes the greatest escape lies in discovering the wonders of a European city that is still off the well-worn path of travel tourism.
Ljubljana Night Gallery
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Shopping GalleriaPromenadePrešeren SquareGelato ShopJulija RestaurantLadies Night OutRiverside Night
Walking through the entrance felt like I was traveling back to an era with no modern conveniences. (Reality check: There are toilets with running water at this popular tourist destination). A winding path takes you by thatched-roofed cottages, where roosters crow and scamper. Various other farm animals such as pigs, goats, sheep, and geese also thrive here.
Amongst the farm cottages are a doctor’s house, a school and grocery store, a pub, and a blacksmith’s shop; the essentials of village life, all part of the Bunratty Castle realm, a magnificent feat of medieval architecture.
In 1250 , Norman invaders first built a wooden tower here as a defensive fortress. Then later, they built the stone castle. Throughout time, the castle has changed hands and been rebuilt four times during battles and squabbles involving the Irish, the Normans, and the King of England. Today, Clare County Council owns Bunratty Castle and it remains a national monument after being fully restored and furnished before opening to the public in 1962.
Grand Hall
The Grand Hall is the most impressive room in the castle. Royal residents would host extravagant banquets here, and welcomed special guests and dignitaries. Original ornate tapestries from the 1500s hang on the walls. Antlers from Irish elk that used to roam the countryside also hang high as hunting trophies. Tall stained-glass windows bring in bright light.
Celtic Fertility Symbol
An old Celtic symbol is etched on one of the walls next to a window. According to the guide who led our tour, the symbol blesses the castle with fertility. The symbol also has a mask, the guide said, to scare off evil spirits.
Elk AntlersStained GlassGrand Hall Art
A narrow single-file spiral staircase goes all the way up to the castle’s observation deck. Along the way, you pass levels with servants quarters, Royal bedrooms, and salons restored with original furnishings from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Once you’re at the top level, there is an absolutely beautiful 360 degree view of County Clare’s countryside.
Photos By Susan Geiger
While you can’t book an overnight stay at Bunratty Castle, you can experience a night of revelry in medieval atmosphere. The castle regularly hosts four-course dinner banquets by candlelight, which are open to the public and include performances by costumed period actors and traditional Irish music.
Take A Video Tour of Bunratty Castle. Tap play In The Window Below
