A trip to the Karst region of Slovenia reveals there is significant life and grandeur underground. There are huge, amazing subterranean caverns, canyons, and a medieval castle protruding from a cave. Such is Slovenia’s carefully maintained cave culture, an immense source of geological and environmental local pride, as it should be, and a vital source of tourist revenue for the region.
We ventured below the surface – and above in one instance – to explore the natural wonders inside the captivating worlds of Postojna, Predjama Castle, and Skocjan caves. Each has a unique history, amazing geological features, stunning vistas, and some heart-pounding, physically-challenging moments.
Postojna Cave
This is one natural wonder that rises to a theme park level. From souvenir shops and themed restaurants to a resort hotel and a cave train, Postojna is marketed as a family entertainment complex. It is the most touristy and crowded compared to the others. Even so, Postojna Cave is a fun adventure and a sight to behold. At the cave’s entrance, people are herded into queues in groups, according to your preferred language of the tour guide. (English, German, Slovene, and Italian). The path descending into the cave is smooth and even, leading to the cave train boarding area. Again, it feels like you’re boarding a theme park ride.
We wore light jackets because it’s quite chilly underground, and even gets cooler when the ride whisks you away at a pretty good rate of speed. The train runs through some narrow, low ceiling, winding tunnels, so there are caution signs not to stand or raise your arms. Take that seriously! It’s a rather lengthly ride deep inside the cave. Along the way, the train passes through some wide open chambers staged with lighting, including chandeliers, to show off beautifully glistening and colorful stalactites and stalagmites towering from the ground and ceiling.
When the train comes to a stop, you step off to find yourself in a surreal subterranean world, a moisture-filled echo chamber world of steep hills, plunging valleys, and an orchestra of water droplets ricocheting off rock formations and puddles – and sometimes your head and neck. A hat and scarf are a good defense. You’re immersed in a marvel millions of years in the making, a 20-kilometer (12-mile) cave carved by the Pika River. Just 5.3 kilometers (3 miles) is open for public access. Still, the breath and scope of it is something like a fairy tale world. It’s hard to imagine any living creature surviving here, but there is! Something called an olm, a long snow-white colored salamander creature, inhabits the cave. Locals call olms baby dragons. They live in darkness and survive for long periods of time without food in this underground sanctuary.
Predjama Castle
Just a few miles from Postojna Cave, up a winding mountainous road, you’ll find an imposing sight almost too great to believe. High in a mountain, perched on a cliff, is the medieval Predjama Castle. The massive fortress made of stone is an amazing feat of architecture, constructed in front of a cave and extends upward inside of it. Predjama is the largest cave castle in the world, and more than 800 years old. Slovenian legend tells how a 15th-century knight named Erazem of Predjama lived at the castle and used his forces there to fight against the nobility. Erazem was eventually killed and the rebellion ended. You hike your way to the castle from the parking lot, cross over a small draw bridge and enter through the front gate.
From there, you climb up to multiple levels using narrow stairways. Sometimes there’s only room to go one way. You’ll see living quarters, battle chambers, an armory, and a cistern to capture dripping cave water. There’s an interesting system of channel drains carved into the interior fortress walls that flows water into the cistern. The journey up through the interior of the castle, and then way up into the cave, is not for the unfit. It is a test of stamina, for sure, but well worth the effort. At the upper castle levels, you’ll have outstanding panoramic views of the countryside, bright green pastures, and rolling hills. Depending on the time of day, you might see bats flying overhead, as a colony of them live there. Every castle cave requires bats, of course!
Skocjan Caves
For a truly vigorous and visually immersive experience, the subterranean masterpiece of Skocjan Caves and its seemingly endless canyon is a glorious hike you won’t soon forget. Even if you’re reasonably fit but not used to steep inclines and staircases with hundreds of steps, this adventure will tax your stamina and test your leg muscles. For me, an active senior, it was so worth it. Skocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is special. The enormity of the interior makes you feel so small, a mere spec inside a larger world, with an infinite dark abyss below, like you’re in some science fiction environment or Star Wars world.
Cave guides lead groups according to language. In the beginning, there’s a series of smaller chambers and grottos with cool looking rock formations and large stalactites and stalagmites. Then comes the big show – the so-called “Murmuring Water Cave.” You can hear the rushing waters of the Reka River echoing throughout the cave. You’re high above the river, hugging the cave wall as you walk a narrow winding foot path until you come to the Cerkvenik walking bridge. The plexiglass bridge and low railing make for a mind-blowing sight and feeling. If you’re squeamish about heights, walk across quickly and look straight ahead.
Ascending above the cave, darkness gradually turns to light as you approach the exit, which is a surreal experience. It feels like you’re looking through the world’s largest picture window. Rich, lush landscape is ahead as you leave the dark subterranean wilderness.
There are three ways to return to the visitors center. Two are relatively easy, one is more strenuous but the most scenic. We chose the more scenic route, and discovered unparalleled beauty on the way back. The views of the Reka River canyon and landscapes are majestic and unforgettable. Slovenia’s cave culture left an indelible impression on our adventurous souls. A journey of history, wonder, and geological masterpieces.
Photos By Susan Geiger
Videos By Steve Geiger
