Gritty Zagreb may not clinch the title of Croatia’s prettiest city. Not even close. That honor goes to any picturesque destination along the Dalmatian Coast. However, a closer look, beyond the surface, reveals Zagreb’s captivating charm that sets it apart from its coastal counterparts.
The Elegance of Hotel Esplanade
Our introduction to Zagreb started when we stepped into the grand lobby of the stately Esplanade Hotel. The meticulously restored Esplanade, which is now 99 years old, exudes elegance through its architecture and decor. It faithfully preserves the historical heritage of the 1920s, a time when it welcomed a prestigious array of guests, ranging from entertainers and artists to world dignitaries and travelers.
Notably, the Esplanade also hosted travelers passing through Zagreb on the illustrious and opulent Orient Express train. Our tour organizer could not have picked a better place to stay. The Esplanade is an incredibly convenient location with numerous sightseeing destinations within walking distance. These include museums, parks, gardens, restaurants, shopping districts, and public transportation options. Guests will find it easy to explore and enjoy the surrounding attractions without the need for extensive travel arrangements. The hotel’s friendly concierge provided a detailed city map and great recommendations. The elegant rooms provided the perfect blend of modern comforts and historical charm, making our stay truly memorable. Each day began with a delightful breakfast at Zinfandel’s restaurant, named after the grape variety that made Croatian wines famous. The sumptuous breakfast spread at the Esplanade offers a delightful taste of the region’s culinary delights, including the mouthwatering Strukli—a cheesy, creamy, oven-baked pastry. This delectable experience sets the perfect tone for a day of exploration and adventure ahead.
Nikola Tesla Museum
You can’t miss this massive warehouse of science named after Croatia’s world renowned scientist and inventor. When we arrived, we were pleasantly surprised to discover that it was a free entry day. As it turns out, every first Wednesday of the month offers free admission to all visitors at every museum—a fantastic opportunity! The museum is a fascinating blend of science and history, showcasing Tesla’s groundbreaking inventions. One very fascinating highlight of the museum is the awe-inspiring demonstration of Tesla coils, creating dazzling electric displays. There’s much more to see and experience beyond Tesla. The museum dedicates two floors to showcase innovations from Croatia and other nations in various fields, such as ground transportation, aviation, space exploration, photography, agriculture, and more.
Zagreb Botanical Gardens
In the middle of the bustling city is a tranquil escape inside the Zagreb Botanical Gardens, which was founded in 1889. This sprawling lush green oasis is perfect for strolling and reconnecting with nature.
We wandered among the diverse flora. The garden has 10,000 species of plants. With the fresh scent of flowers everywhere and the soothing sounds of water features as a natural soundtrack, we experienced complete serenity. The gardens are divided into various sections, each showcasing a different collection of plants from around the world. A word of caution: Watch your step carefully. While admiring some roses in the garden, I unintentionally broke a golden rule by walking across the grass, prompting a garden guard to blow her whistle loudly. I immediately apologized, explaining that I hadn’t noticed any “Keep Off The Grass” signs. The guard maintained a stern expression and directed my attention to the back of the entry ticket. There, in the tiniest fine print, it indeed mentioned not to walk on the grass.
WALK WITH US THROUGH ZAGREB GARDENS IN THIS VIDEO TOUR (PRESS PLAY TO VIEW)
Croatia Museum of Naive Art
The Croatia Museum of Naive Art is delightful, whimsical, and colorful. Paintings by self-taught artists offers a unique perspective on Croatian life, culture, and heritage. The Naive Art collection has vibrant colors, a style characterized by its simplicity and authenticity. The vibrant colors and imaginative depictions of everyday scenes are truly captivating. This museum will leave you with a sense of wonder and appreciation for the beauty of simplicity, reminding us that art knows no boundaries.
Old Town Funicular
Hop on Zagreb’s Old Town funicular for a scenic ride up the hill. The short 64 second journey offers fantastic views of the city below. The funicular is one of the oldest in the world, dating back to 1890, and it’s a testament to Zagreb’s commitment to preserving its historical heritage. It was originally built to transport passengers from the Lower Town to the Upper Town, making it a convenient shortcut for locals and visitors alike.
Once you reach the top, you’ll find yourself in a charming medieval neighborhood, filled with cobblestone streets and quaint shops. The Old Town is a treasure trove of historical sites, including the iconic Lotrščak Tower and the Stone Gate, which are in medieval Gradec Town.
The Lotrščak Tower, dating back to the 13th century, offers a breathtaking view of the city from its observation deck. Every day at noon, a cannon is fired from the tower, a tradition dating back to the 19th century. The Stone Gate, with its religious significance, is a place of prayer and pilgrimage for many Croatians. The gate houses a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and locals often light candles and offer prayers for protection and blessings. Exploring the winding alleys and hidden courtyards felt like stepping into a medieval village. The blend of history, architecture, and vibrant culture made this part of Zagreb a true gem.
Grič Tunnel
Grič Tunnel, also known as the “Tunel Grič” or the “Grič Underground,” is a fascinating tunnel system in Zagreb. It was originally constructed during World War II as a shelter and a quick transport route for citizens seeking refuge from air raids and bombings. The tunnel’s construction began in 1943, during the Nazi occupation of Croatia, and it was completed in 1945, towards the end of the war.
The tunnel is approximately 350 meters (1148 feet) long, and its entrance is near the Stone Gate. In 2016, the city of Zagreb initiated a renovation project to revitalize the tunnel and turn it into a unique cultural and artistic venue. Throughout the year, the tunnel hosts art exhibitions, multimedia installations, and cultural events, drawing locals and tourists alike to experience the city’s thriving artistic scene.
St. Mark’s Church
You can’t miss St. Mark’s Church while in Zagreb! This iconic landmark boasts a rooftop that looks like it’s straight out of a fairy tale. The colorful tiles arranged in Croatia’s coat of arms and Zagreb’s city emblem are simply captivating. The church itself is a masterpiece of Gothic and Romanesque architecture, but it’s the breathtaking rooftop that steals the show. It’s like an artist’s palette, blending together hues of red, white, and blue to create a mesmerizing mosaic.
The vivid colors of the tiles symbolize Croatia’s historical regions and heritage. The red and white checkerboard pattern represents Croatia, while the coats of arms of Zagreb and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia, and Dalmatia add to the artistic splendor. The square where St. Mark’s Church stands is also a vibrant hub of activity, lined with quaint cafes and souvenir shops.
Mirogoj Cemetery
Visiting a cemetery might not be on everyone’s to-do list, but, Mirogoj Cemetery is unlike any other. It’s an open-air gallery showcasing stunning sculptures and mausoleums that pay tribute to those who have passed on. While it may seem unusual, the artistry and craftsmanship dedicated to preserving memories and honoring lives lived is evident in every monument and tombstone.
It’s a reminder of the shared human experience and the beauty of commemorating our loved ones in unique and meaningful ways. In addition to the sculptures and monuments, Mirogo Cemetery is the final resting place of many notable Croatian figures, including politicians, writers, and artists. Their memorials served as a testament to their contributions to Croatian society and culture.
Savoring The Open Market
A visit to Zagreb’s open market is a feast for the senses. The colorful stalls brim with fresh produce, local delicacies, and handmade crafts. The bustling atmosphere of the market buzzed with energy, and it was a treat to interact with the friendly vendors. They were more than happy to share stories about their products and offer tasty samples. One highlight was tasting the juicy cherries, freshly picked from nearby orchards. It was an explosion of flavor in every bite.
Zagreb Day Celebration
Our Zagreb journey coincided with the historic Zagreb Day celebration. It was like going back in time, with live music, vibrant costumes, and historical characters roaming the green horseshoe district’s parks.
The green horseshoe district is a picturesque ensemble of parks and squares that highlights Zagreb’s cultural and historical heritage. The celebration showcased the city’s diverse cultural influences and its commitment to preserving traditions. Throughout the day, live musical performances echoed through the parks, featuring a blend of traditional and contemporary music. Historical characters strolled through the parks, allowing visitors to interact with them and learn about Zagreb’s past. It was like being transported to different eras, with each character offering a unique perspective on the city’s history.
Zagreb is timeless beauty and rich history, a city that effortlessly weaves together the past and the present.
Press Play Below To View A Timelapse Video Of Zagreb Street Life
Videos By Steve Geiger
Photos By Susan Geiger
Really wonderful write up and beautiful photos/video of Zagreb 👍🏻
Thanks so much. It’s such an extraordinary city! Very safe, too.