The Julian Alps stood tall and majestic as my wife, Susan, and I set out on our thrilling expedition through Slovenia’s renowned Vršič Pass. We planned a full day for this journey, knowing the drive required careful navigation on a narrow road with only about a pencil’s length of distance between passing vehicles. Even more harrowing was trying to conquer the 50 switchbacks that lay ahead.
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The twists and turns seemed never-ending, but the picturesque beauty of the landscape made every moment worth it. As we rounded switchback #8, where the impressive World War I Russian Orthodox chapel stands—built by Russian POWs—fate had something unexpected in store for us. With a sudden pop and whoosh, our rental car’s right front tire struck the sharp edge of a low-lying granite curb, and our hearts sank as we were confronted with the reality of a flat tire.
I pulled over to the side of the road. As we scrambled to assess the situation, our frustration turned into amazement when we noticed two friendly faces approaching us from a car parked in front of us. They were fellow travelers from England, Will and Phil, who had also fallen victim to the same treacherous switchback. Amid laughter and shared camaraderie, we decided to tackle our flat tires together, turning an unfortunate event into a chance encounter and a newfound friendship. We had rented a Skoda, made in the Czech Republic, and so had Will and Phil, except they didn’t have a spare tire. They called and waited to have their car towed.
Will & Phil & Us
I hadn’t changed a tire since Jimmy Carter was in the White House, but our fortunes changed when a Good Samaritan appeared out of nowhere. It was a man and his wife on vacation from Illinois. He kindly offered his assistance in changing our tire (I must have looked clueless.), and within minutes, we were back on the road, our spirits lifted by the kindness of strangers.
With a renewed sense of adventure, we continued our ascent, and the views that greeted us were nothing short of awe-inspiring. Towering mountain peaks surrounded us, and the valleys below flowed like a vibrant tapestry of green forests and meadows. We pulled over at every opportunity to capture the sprawling landscapes in photographs and timelapse videos, documenting the mesmerizing scenery around us.
After an exhilarating drive, we reached the Erjavčvea hut, a charming mountain retreat and restaurant nestled amidst the rugged beauty of the Julian Alps in the Triglav National Park . We climbed a steep staircase up to the lodge, which sits on a cliff overlooking the mountains and the valley below. The warm welcome and hearty lunch of rich Slovenian goulash, thick loaves of bread, and sweet apple strudel replenished our energy, providing the perfect fuel for further exploration.
We pressed on, eager to reach the highest point of the pass. As we ascended, the air grew crisper, and late May’s lingering snow patches appeared more frequently. The lovely alpine setting became even more exciting when we shared the road with a herd of roaming sheep passing by. Susan couldn’t resist the temptation to play in the snow, lobbing a few snowballs in my direction. We were delighted by the unexpected encounter with this summer-winter wonderland. Bunches of blooming pink rock jasmine made for a unique seasonal contrast with the blanket of snow just a few feet away.
Finally reaching the summit of the pass gave us a sense of accomplishment after surviving a flat tire and all those maddening hairpin turns. The panoramic views were simply magnificent, and I captured them for future deeper reflection in a timelapse video. It was a truly unforgettable journey!
As we made our way back down the winding road, we entered into the glorious Soča River Valley, with its raging clear baby-blue colored water rumbling over rocks and gorges. We pulled over to view the spectacular scene with the peaks of the Julian Alps cast as sentinels on the horizon. It was the last chapter of an adventure giving us memories to last the rest of our lifetime and a feeling of gratitude for being able to experience this very special place.
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Videos By Steve Geiger
Photos By Susan Geiger
