Acadia Memories: From Heavenly Forests To Wild Ocean

In spring, my thoughts turn to Acadia National Park. This is the time of year when the weather improves in Maine and visitors start to gather in this glorious national park. Mount Desert Island teems with activity, on land and in water. Plants burst with blooms. Schooners launch in a kaleidoscope of sails. Yet, in our present reality of the new coronavirus and its insidious COVID-19 disease, social distancing is now our norm. Travel to Acadia, or any other national park, is on indefinite hold. The entire national park system is closed; although Acadia is different from many of the rest since around 10,000 residents live year round in the designated park area . Still, access for them is limited, too, as the traditional popular areas are closed.

So, as I stay home, my mind drifts like a cool gentle Maine breeze to those extraordinary moments of our first Acadia summer visit several years ago. My wife and I arrive around dusk at our humble well-kept cabin on Duck Cove near remote Southwest Harbor, the so-called quiet mostly residential side of the island. A painted sky of brilliant hues greets us. At that moment, I realize this place is special. In the early morning around five, the sun shoots through the window shades. There’s the murmur of a trolling lobster boat with its gentle wake lapping the shoreline. We’re up early every day to pack as much in to our five-day stay as we can. After cabin breakfasts of mostly cereal, bananas, or maybe a couple eggs, toast or some yogurt, we hit the road to the popular areas of Acadia. On the way each day, we stop at a local grocery store to pick up a picnic lunch to put in our cooler, along with a regional soft drink such as Old Soaker, a popular blueberry soda pop. You cannot experience everything Acadia has to offer in just five days. Never was our goal. The park is just too large. We love to hike, explore, and be on or next to water. We prepared before our trip by doing research on the NPS website and various local Acadia related websites. Our first stop on day one is the Acadia National Park Visitor Center. This gives us a good orientation of the overall park, provides an opportunity to speak to a ranger to get some insight and perspective where the crowds might be large or small, unexpected road construction and traffic delays (always ongoing in spring and summer), and some personal hidden gems not always referenced in guidebooks and online brochures.

Here are some favorite moments from our trip:

Great Head Trail Hike

One of the best moderate hikes in Acadia. It’s also one of the shortest hikes by Acadia standards, and calling it moderate is generous. This trail will get your heart pumping as you ascend a granite slope. There are multiple entry points. We chose Sand Beach. Be sure to watch your footing to prevent tripping over exposed tree roots and rocks. There is some minor climbing involved, so you have to be in reasonably good shape. In the end, it’s well worth the effort. You will enjoy some breathtaking views of the coastline, especially the one looking down on Sand Beach.

Jordan Pond

This is a delightful early afternoon hike around the perimeter of a gorgeous large body of water. The pond trail starts at Jordan House, a historic property known for its waterfront views, outdoor café and restaurant serving up the best popovers on the planet. The loop trail is less than a mile and is in the easy to moderate range. Along the way, you’ll travel across a narrow boardwalk, so navigate with caution. Take a moment to pause, lookout over the pond, and take in the scenery. The surrounding landscape is spectacular. If you’re lucky, you might discover a family of loons , as we did.

Ocean Path

Our favorite respite spot to have a shaded picnic. This mostly dirt path is flat and parallels Park Loop Road and the Atlantic Ocean. Spread a blanket at Otter Point and enjoy lunch under a tree. Waves crash against the rocky shoreline, and sail boats pass by. Afterwards, hike the path a bit and wander out onto the rocky shoreline to discover a tide pool or two.

Bass Harbor Head Light

The only lighthouse in Acadia is far from the busy areas of the park. It is in the town of Tremont, located in the quiet area of Mount Desert Island and close to our cabin. This is one of the most photographed lighthouses in America. It makes for dramatic shots because Bass Harbor sits right on the edge of a cliff. A path leads down to the rocky shoreline. You’ll need to wear stable footwear and be cautious as you walk. You won’t be able to tour the inside of the lighthouse since it is closed to the public. However, there are information displays along the path describing Bass Harbor’s history and significance to maritime and commerce.

Thuya Garden

A great way to spend a morning in Acadia. Thuya Garden is more than 100 years old and has a unique garden layout featuring a variety of spring and summer blooms. The cool thing is there’s a parking area on a lower level and you can ascend a shaded path up to the gardens. At various locations on the way up, there are lookouts to take in the scenery of the woods and Seal Harbor. The gardens are magnificent and each has a theme. You can also tour Thuya Lodge for a glimpse of life in the early 1900s.

Cadillac Mountain

Most everyone who visits Acadia winds up at Cadillac Mountain. No matter the time of day, you are sure to have traffic congestion and might have to circle a few times to get a parking spot. In summer, early risers flock to see the sunrise, the first in the United States. We visited in the late afternoon, and it is a wonderful spot to get a panoramic view of the landscape from high up.

Margaret Todd Windjammer Cruise

Sure, it’s touristy. But after all, we are tourists. It is a quick and easy way to get out on the water and cruise the islands while experiencing a windjammer up close. The schooner launches from Bar Harbor with several daily departures. You spend about ninety minutes touring the area while a park ranger describes various land features, wildlife, and local history. The crew is entertaining to watch as they work as a team raising and lowering the sails. Not a bad deal for under $100 for two. Play the video for a quick tour of our time aboard the Margaret Todd.

Thurston’s Lobster Pound

When in Maine, how can you not eat lobster? It’s a staple on virtually all restaurant menus. This is a local gem in the Acadia town of Bernard. It is one of the prettiest harbor towns you will see, especially during the “golden hour” of sunset. Expect to take a spot in line to be seated, as this is a popular place at dinner time. You order at the front counter, take a number, and wait to be called to pick up your food. The atmosphere is seashore rustic and a lot of fun.